Monday, January 29, 2007

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From the Files of File Boy…

WARNING: Educational content, No Humor. May not be suitable for any audiences

1/29/07:

Yesterday I got up around 7:30, after deciding I wouldn’t go to church (I was tired from being up late the night before). I called my friend S. at around 8 which is the time we usually wait to call each other in the morning. I wanted to know if he’d like to go for a hike. He said he’d be going to church at 10, but would go when he got back.

At 11:45 he was home, so I loaded my dog into the truck and my fiancé and I headed over to his place to pick him up. Today he was bringing his dog, but his fiancé would not be going.

As we drove towards the Woodland Beach Wildlife Management Area, it became obvious to us that this was going to be several hours of hiking, so we dropped my fiancé back off at home because she had other engagements during the afternoon.

So we drove down route 9, and made a turn onto Lighthouse Road. This road passes one small mobile home, which is not in good condition, but much better than the next dwelling(s). On the left side there was a home of some sort, though I am not convinced anyone is still living in it. All of the windows were out, and there was no indication that there was any electricity in it. There was a dog chained to the front door, or near the door. Immediately adjacent to this old home was another, just slightly better home. This one had a light on inside which was visible, and a truck was parked out front. These were perhaps amongst the worst homes I have seen anywhere in the state.

A few hundred yards beyond these homes the road becomes gravel and dirt, and ends at a metal access bar. We parked there, let the dogs out and began hiking. The area is clearly marked as state property and as a wildlife area.

There was an elevated path which we took through the first piece of woods. There were several pieces of cars on either side of us, which I would like to go back and explore. On the right side was a truck, which had been separated from its bed by a hundred yards or so. On the left side of the path was what appeared to be an old school bus, thought I’m not sure what it was. It was several hundred yards back into the woods. We left those woods though very quickly and came out onto a marshland that was larger than any I had ever seen in Delaware. On either side of the elevated path, the land dropped off into this marshy phrag which was muddy and gutted with small creeks. The creeks were mostly mud; with little water in them (perhaps it was low tide).

Looking in any direction, there was only more marshland, with an occasional clump of trees to be seen out in the distance. As we walked the path, we passed three clumps of trees on our left, each one having a deer hunting tree stand in it. The last of the three also contained an old homestead. The homestead was more of a rock foundation, with odd rocks strewn about, possibly the remnants of an old rock wall. These rocks were granite, and of course did not look local. There was also an old well which was covered by rotting wood. This looked pretty dangerous, but it was unmistakable and the water level was within a foot of the top, owing to the high water table.

We continued down this path for what seemed like several miles, noticing shells, a muskrat skull, deer droppings and fox holes. It looked like the path we were walking was the area’s hub of activity, which made sense since it was likely the only solid and dry ground in the area. The feathers indicated to me what the foxes were eating.

As we continued down the path we saw something running ahead, which we guessed was a fox or muskrat because of its size. It ducked into the marsh grasses before we could approach, but my dog went in after it. Her reluctance to leave the marsh gave me reason to go in after her. While I was in the marshy grasses, a man walked up to S. I would guess that he was in his 60s and was out there alone. He had a GPS unit hanging from his coat, and he told us he was out there hiding things, in a sort of “high-tech treasure hunt” called geo-caching. This meeting happened at the fork in the path, and this older fellow had just returned from the path that diverts right. This would have probably been another mile each way that he had to walk. He advised us to continue straight, and at the next fork to take the right sided path. He said this path would terminate on the beach. If we turned left, about 100 feet up the shoreline we would find the remnants of an old light house.

We did as he said and found the old foundation of a lighthouse. It was mostly bricks which were being reclaimed by the bay. Bricks were all over the beach. I found many rocks, shells and other things of interest on the beach.

A bit further up the beach in the same direction was the breakwater for the Smyrna River. Unfortunately we also could see Salem Nuclear Power plant’s cooling tower, and what appeared to be a smaller lighthouse on stilts, north of the Smyrna River’s confluence with the DE Bay.

Also of interest here was the shoreline which is being undercut by the tides of the bay. When we were there (again, possibly at low tide) I was able to walk down to the water’s edge and see the many layers of silt, clay and sand of the beach. At the top was a brownish green algae and grass “mat” layer. Immediately below this layer was the sandy beach layer. Below this, approximately 2 feet below surface was a silvery grey colored layer, which I interpreted as the layer below sea water (the color indicates the anaerobic micro-organisms which live there – anaerobic indicating they live and die below water). I took some time to look at these layers but did not see any fossil material or other hard substances.

The beach had pebbles, driftwood, pieces of boats, bricks and pieces of bricks and old pottery, several samples of which I brought home. I had the feeling that this was a beach that did not see much tourist traffic, and would represent an ideal place to search for fossils, rocks or other shipwrecked items of interest.

The foundation of the abandoned lighthouse looked to have a front wall of brick which was several layers thick (in one area it appeared to be the width of 5 or 6 bricks, and in another there was 10 or 12 brick-widths of thickness to it). I assumed that the shoreline had eroded back and undercut the original foundation which at one point may have been a hundred yards from the water or more.

The walk back was so long that I began to get sore and exhausted. This is a long walk, but well worth it. I would recommend not taking this walk when the mosquitoes or other bugs are out. Although, I’d imagine the shorebirds and other wildlife viewing opportunities might make up for some of the discomfort.

What was amazing to me was that after hiking all of those miles and not leaving state land, and upon beginning our drive home, we drove past several more miles of “Wildlife Management Area” signs, which indicates the size of this piece of land. When you consider that north of this area is Cedar Swamp, and south is Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge, you get an idea of the size and amount of this protected block of land. South of Bombay Hook is Little Creek Wildlife Management Area. This is an expansive tract of uninterrupted protected lands.

20 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm posting this long description of a hike I took in the event that anyone would like to go on this hike. Probably one of the best hikes I've taken in DE. There is no elevation changes or rough terrain. Very easy, but very long hike.

1:11 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm a major hike lover! I'd love to go on that hike with you sometime. I'm serious. It would be great! I'm also going to e-mail you some photos and websites of an amazing hike I took in New Mexico called "Tent Rock." You can google it and see for yourself!

By the way, I love the word:
geo-caching - that's fun to say. It's also fun to say anaerobic micro-organisms! Let's try that again, anaerobic micro-organisms!

6:48 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I didn't know you were into hiking! I go probably every weekend. Typically on Sundays. I used to just hit the Blackbird State Forest, because even though I've been to each tract numerous times, there are still paths in there that I've never walked, and even when you walk a path you've already seen, you can still see/find cool stuff.

Lately we've been just picking a tract of land within 20 miles and hiking it to check it out. Last week we did this old farm that was bought by the state and added to Cedar Swamp Wildlife Management Area. It was an old farm with boarded up windows, and several smaller outbuildings (which still had bolts and broken tools inside!). Then we hiked back into this farm and way in back we found a trappers cabin. Old and abandoned, the place was open and we took pictures of it from every angle. The glass windows (those that were not broken) were the old wavy glass like in colonial homes. Probably old leaded glass. We walked all around and inside of it.

Anyway, I'm chomping at the bit to go back to this woodland beach place, it was really just the coolest. Any time you want to go let me know and I'll tell you how to get there. We can hook up a hike. At some point I'd like to go to Bombay Hook too, since it is 15,978 acres.

According to this website:
http://www.fws.gov/northeast/bombayhook/

"The refuge has one of the largest expanses of nearly unaltered tidal salt marsh in the mid-Atlantic region. It also includes 1,100 acres of impounded fresh water pools, brushy and timbered swamps, 1,100 acres of agricultural lands, and timbered and grassy upland. The general terrain is flat and less than ten feet above sea level."

8:17 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Perhaps it's me, but unless there's an elevation change, I just call it taking a walk. Don't get me wrong. You can wear yourself out taking a walk, get hurt, lost, eaten by animals, etc. But hikes just mean up and down to me. Anyway, regardless of what they're called, I love them. I love going out and finding abandoned stuff and old crap.

I lived on the border of a creek when I was a kid (I'll e-mail you a pic of my house and the creek from outerspace so you can see).

I grew up in the marshes fishing, crabbing, getting muddy and stinky, and coming across older people doing all kinds of illegal shit. Fond memories those are! We'll have to arrange a hike. We'll just have to decide what to do about the women.

3:21 PM  
Blogger S'girl said...

...seems to me if you leave a trail of breadcrumbs as you enter the woods AND if you consider that some critter will more than likely come along and eat said breadcrumbs before the women figured it was time to head back, you wld solve the "what to do about the women" issue once and for all?!?!?

5:21 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

S'Girl - you forgot that the women will be with us. Probably clinging, complaining, swatting, TALKING etc. They won't need a trail of breadcrumbs to follow back. I'll keep it in mind though for future use!

7:57 AM  
Blogger S'girl said...

So do the pairing off thing -- boys w/boys, girls w/girls -- let them bond over shopping and how hard it is to keep up w/you guys. Your stride is longer and they'll more than likely get stuck in some kind of muck or mire and you guys can pull ahead. Sheesh, this shldn't be so hard. It's not like you have one of those invisible dog collars around your necks so tht every step you make can be tracked on some kind of high-tech system, oh wait, GPS: Global Penis Smotherer. Sorry...

8:18 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

The thing about these big tracts of land is that they are all flat. But as far as Delaware goes, there are only a few places that have hills and valleys (White Clay Creek, Brandywine Creek State Park). Those places are nice, but you can't get lost in them. In fact, you can always either here cars, see cars, see a road or a house or some other building. So you don't get the sense of God-country. That's what appealed to me about out west. You can really and truly get lost in some of those parks, and you really and truly get eaten by something and not found. Its that scariness that makes it exciting. In Delaware, in order to get even a sense of "lost-ness" you have to go to one of the parks/wildlife areas south of the canal, where it is flat.

But what I've learned over the years is that places like Blackbird, for example which seem to be soggy and muddy and not as attractive as a place out west are actually very cool too. There was a recent study conducted about endangered and threatened species in DE and it talks about the Millington/Blackbird Conservation Corridor and the animals and plants found there. So even though it looks like just a muddy tract of flat ground with trees, it is jumping with critters and really cool "stuff". Here's the site that talks about the study:

http://www.dnrec.state.de.us/nhp/information/blackbird.asp

and here's another from the Nature Conservancy:

http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/delaware/preserves/art12413.html

9:44 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Those sites didn't seem to come through. Just Google "Blackbird Millington Conservation Corridor" if you're interested.

9:46 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

File Boy... This was a very interesting read. Reminds me of a show I once saw on PBS. It was called Alone in the Wilderness. If you ever get a chance you should really see it... Its great. Its about a man who decides to leave behind all the things of normal living and move up to Alaska to live... Alone. Its great. He builds his own cabin, chairs, tables, everything. He grows his own veggies and fishes or hunts to get some meat. He builds this "ice chest" in the ground and puts moss over it to keep it cool in the summer. Oh the best part is that he is narrating it the entire time. He's this really strong old man who just loves this wilderness. You post about the hike just really reminded my of that show. Keep up the good writing.. Its intriguing

9:48 AM  
Blogger S'girl said...

I absolutely LOVE tht show abt Alaska -- I think I've seen it abt 10 times and each time it's better and better. He lived there for abt 30 yrs aftr he built his own cabin and all the stuff inside. He left the place to the state and it's now a historic treasure tht anyone can go and visit!

11:16 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I've seen that show on PBS about a dozen times too, and I agree it is one of the best "reality" shows I've ever seen. I recall putting that on my gift list for Christmas and B-day ideas for others, but, alas I still don't have it. I need to get the book too, which I think is that guy's diary. I loved that he went there and made it happen by the sweat of his brow. I like to quote him some times, "I opened and closed my hunting season with one shot. I hated to see that old Ram go, but there were plenty of worse ways to go". "36 inches today, brother would love it here". "I thought I'd take a break and go check on the livestock" (which meant go check on the ram and caribou herds nearby). "Lucky for him I like ram stew" (when he decided not to shoot a caribou). "I could stay comfortable all day long in the minus 30 degree weather".

We will miss Mr. Bereneke and the perfect notches of his logs...

1:01 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

His name was Richard Proenneke. And I'm sure you'll get the DVD and book someday.

3:09 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh aren't we just so smart. Richard Poerrennnnnekkkeeee. He was a crazy old bag anyway.

3:47 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

My favorite part of that show was when he whittled a spoon out of giant log in eleven seconds. The guy had an economy of words too. That little story started with "I needed a spoon."

4:30 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

"with the extra wood from my table project I whittled a set of hinges" And those were some hinges! Then he went ahead and made a bear-proof lock for his door, and a cache for his meat up in what appeared to be a tree fort.

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